| The words "crypt" and "mausoleum", while technically accurate,
don't convey the impact the buildings have in Recoleta. An
individual person's grave can be appreciated on it's own, but
the true power of the place comes from the aggregate effect of
groups of buildings. The density is extraordinary, with lines
of massive one of a kind buildings packed side by side like row
houses. The paved walking paths intersect in a perfect grid
making the place seem like an urban city center. With various
designs suggesting churches, banks, municipal buildings,
storefronts, and even commercial office space, the conventional
distinctions between a living and dead city break down.
Functional doorways, some even open(!), are especially strong
references to normal city buildings. The first image is from a
massive, heavy stone crypt and the door was amazing. I don't
know whether it was always open or not.
Many of the buildings appear to be family crypts, with
space for numerous coffins inside. Some even have multiple
levels with stairs going down to basements filled with the
remains of an extended family. It's possible that this door was
opened to prepare for the arrival of another member of the
family?
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| A number of the buildings in the cemetery were being worked on
when I visited. There were even crews actively working inside a
couple I passed. I thought about taking a couple photos of live
people inside the crypts, but I got the impression from body
language (posture, stares, etc...) that I wasn't welcome to do
so. But I did capture some images where equipment was visible
inside or the exterior was in modified in some temporary way.
This doorway was particularly odd since it looked like someone
had fashioned a barrier out of sheet metal and poles, only to
have someone try to rip it down. I have no idea what the
backstory was, but it did not look like a restful sanctuary.
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| I included this shot since I think it does a good job of
conveying the city-like organization of Recoleta. The two
buildings share a wall, there's no space whatsoever between
them, and the facades are perfectly even at the "street" which
runs in front of them. In addition you can see how vertical,
heavy and imposing the design is. When you walk up to one of
those doors the building looms overhead and you get a clear
sense of a vertical (and very definite) boundary between the
public entrance and the private space inside.
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| I took a couple pictures of this one, since it was so striking
in person. It's just plain beautiful and I just wish I'd
captured the power it radiates better. As you walk up to this
building the linear and geometric design pulls your attention to
the face of the woman. She's perfectly composed, with eyes
closed, intensely focused on her thoughts as she prays. She
blocks your way passively but effectively. With disorangized,
chaos of your setting reflected in the mirrored glass
surrounding her serenity and strength reminding guest to the
crypt that the deceased are resting behind her. She reminds me
of a cross between an art-deco spiritual icon and an imposing
guardian gargoyle.
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